Rabbit Fish

The Rabbit Fish (family Siganidae) also known as the fox face has adapted to its natural environment with odd characteristics. It has an oval shaped body that is flat and thin. They also have two distinct similarities to the animal, the rabbit, which have given this fish its name. One is the amazing mouth that slightly protrudes, baring its sharp teeth. These teeth are used for munching on dead coral branches and flora that is found on rocks. The fish’s feeding behavior is the second of the similarities to the rabbit. It is a continuing action that gives the appearance of constant munching.

The rabbit fish is a highly diverse family of brightly colored fish that can be found along coastal areas. It is apparent that some species of the rabbit fish, particularly the Siganidae family, have a high tolerance to saline since they can also be found in brackish waters. Other species of this fish have migrated into fresh water.

Rabbitfish are closely related to Surgeonfish, and are similarly shaped and equally colorful. They are grazers like Surgeonfish and Parrotfish, and help to keep the algae on rock surfaces down to only a millimeter or two in length. The dorsal, ventral, and anal spines of Rabbitfish are mildly venomous but extremely painful, which earned them their ironic Australian name of 'Happy Moments'. With the exception of the Java Rabbitfish which can grown to over 50 cm a typical adult size is 25 to 30 cm (about 10 to 12 inches).

Rabbit Fish are poisonous and non-poisonous species and are very popular as aquarium specimens. One of the most popular of these is the yellow rabbit fish. This beautifully colored fish has a bright yellow body that is punctuated by a large black dot near the rear. Although it is wary of other fish in the tank it is very seldom known to attack.

Since the rabbit fish is closely related to the surgeonfish it is believed that their mating behaviors are much the same. The rabbit fish likely spawns in groups after which the eggs float on the waters surface until they have hatched.

Water Analysis Testing Technique

Even the most expensive water analysis test kits will not good results if used incorrectly, the most common mistakes is the contaminate of the test tube which collects the water, which will cause inaccurate results.

Following a few simple procedures will help ensure that the tests will be performed as accurately as possible.

Now you shoud know cleaniness is of upmost importance,as you are collecting a small quantity of water, any small contamination will multiply the results no end.

When using and handling the water analysis test kits,read the instructions as many of the chemicals can be toxic to humans. Another beginners mistake is balancing the test kits liquid,etc on top of the tank,as one accident and all the chemical is in the water.

When testing the aquarium water, use one test kit at a time as you are bound to get mixed up after a while and recording them can be difficult.

To avoid confusion, do only one test at a time, record the results, and then proceed to the next test.  Do not hurry.  A complete set of test for the typical marine tank should take only about half an hour to carry out.

For more information on Marine Aquarium Water Chemistry or the Marine Aquarium Beginners Guide click here.

Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Choosing your Water Analysis Kit

We have discussed the water analysis and how often to test our aquarium water, Now we look at choosing your water analysis kit.

For most purposes a highly accurate test kit is not necessary. For example ammonia, one needs to know only if it is present at all, not the precise amount, since any amount of this toxic compound is cause for concern.  But on the other endof the scale is copper, a small difference of 0.1 ppm can be significant indeed, the difference between treating disease and killing the marine fish.  It is important to understand that what is meant by accuracy depends upon which parameter one is trying to measure.

Accuracy, the degree to which a test result reflects the real state of the sample being tested, becomes ever so more expensive as the decimal places increases.  An instrument of test is accurate to +-10 units may cost only a fraction of the cost of a similar instrument that is accurate to +-0.1 units, representing a 100-fold increase in accuracy.  Choose a level of accuracy appropriate to the parameter.  A calcium test, for example, can vary by +-20 ppm without causing problems.

Precision refers to the smallest amount of difference a test or instrument will permit the observer to distinguish reliably.  The smaller the increment, the greater the precision and the higher the cost.  For example, to measure the difference between 0.01 and 0.02 mg/L of phosphate is more difficult that determining the difference between 12 and 24 mg/L.  however, since tiny amounts of phosphate can exert  dramatic effects, one needs the more precise test.

Which brand should be used? Easy-to-use test kits are sold at any aquarium shop.  As with any product, though, not all brands are created equal.  Some kits provide results that are almost suitable for serious laboratory work, while others are so inaccurate as to be practically useless.

For any given brand, the test results may not be equally satisfactory across the entire range kits offered.  The company that makes a great nitrate test kit may have a lousy pH kit, for example.  For this reason, you should avoid master test kit products that offer several kits in a single package.  .

Once you settle for a kit for a particular measurement, stick with it.  Changing brands will almost certainly mean that the numbers obtained will differ, making it impossible to compare results from the new kit with results previously determined with another kit.  Since spotting a changing trend in tank conditions is more important than knowing the precise value at the current moment, the importance of having consistent test results cannot be overemphasized.

For more information on Marine Aquarium Water Chemistry or the Marine Aquarium Beginners Guide click here.

Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide

What are Nitrates?

What Is Nitrate?

Nitrate is the waste by-product of nitrifying bacteria (nitrobacters), which develops as part of the nitrogen cycle and occur as the final stage and stages are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Nitrates are a key component to make an aquarium's biological filtration system function and stay in balance.

Why Is Nitrate a Problem Element?

Nitrates are potentially dangerous due to its affects on the aquarium water chemistry and on the healthy environment for your fish while nitrates are accumulating. The higher the nitrate levels the higher and severe the consequences due to the stress on your fish and the favorable conditions for a serious algae outbreak

What Is an Acceptable Level for Nitrate?

The optimal amount of nitrate in any type of saltwater system is an negegible, but an acceptable range for fish-only tanks is from 10 to 40 ppm, sometimes with no ill effects. This is not recommended as extreme fish stress will occur at around 60 ppm. In reef systems aquariums even a minor level of nitrate can cause damage as well as death to delicate corals, anemones and other invertebrates, as well as some crustaceans. The acceptable range of nitrate for reef tanks is 0.25 ppm, but not more than 5 ppm.

Other Sources of Nitrate

Aquarium Water changes or topping up water from evaporation are ways to increase the nitrate levels in the saltwater aquarium. Ensure you use purified water and a brand of sea salt mix that may contain nitrates. Therefore filter tap water and use the correct sea salt mix.

How to Lower Nitrates

In order to control nitrate levels, there are a number of things you might consider including:

* Quality Saltwater Aquarium Filtration system
* Purchase aquatic species that eat algae, such as Surgeons, Tangs, Rabbitfish and Filefish.
* Change out about twenty-five percent of the water every seven to ten days.
* Put in plants
* Make sure your aquarium is large enough for the number of fish it contains.

For more information on Saltwater Aquariums click here to Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Polychaete Worms

Marine aquarists setting up there tank with liverock to aid biological filtration will come across these polychaete worms by default as they are normally is attached to liverocks.

The Polychaeta or polychaetes are a class of annelid worms, generally marine. Each body segment has a pair of fleshy protrusions called parapodia that bear many bristles, called chaetae, which are made of chitin. Indeed the polychaetes are sometimes referred to as bristle worms. More than 10,000 species are described in this class. Common representatives include the lugworm (Arenicola marina) and the sandworm or clam worm Nereis.  With over 10,000 speices of polychaete worms only a few are offered to aquarists, and these are normally fanworms, which have specialized feeding crowns to catch the particles from the water. Many species have been difficult to keep as aquarists do have difficulties in feeding them, but improvements in zooplankton and phytoplankton substitutes and additives have increased the chances ofsuccess.

Polychaetes have many  common other names such as: lugworms, clam worms, bristleworms, fire worms, palolo worms, sea mice, featherduster worms, etc., but all possess an array of bristles on their many leg-like parapodia -- the name polychaete, in fact, means "many bristles". The many common names reflect the wide array of body forms found in this group, unlike the earthworms and leeches which all have the same general appearance.

The delicate beauty of many polychaetes make them a favored subject for photography, and several are named after nymphs and goddesses of Greek myth, such as Nereis (the common "clam worm") and Aphrodite (the "sea mouse").