To start Siphoning fill the tube completely with water and make sure there is no air trapped in the tube.

Ensure you have clean equipment ans hands before start putting your hands in the aquarium, dip the tube in the aquarium to completey fill the tube.

If your aquarium is too small to do this, try placing one end of the tube in the tank. Draw water on the other end by putting your mouth and sipping the water – but not drinking it!

It will take practice but it’s really easy when you get the hang of it.

Now the water should start flowing out.

Bucket Lowered

Set up your bucket lower than the aquarium failure to do this the process would start. Now lower the end of the tube into the bucket for the process to start.

Thumb Off

Take your thumb off of one end and the water should begin to flow rapidly from the aquarium into the bucket.

You can control the water flow by pinching or folding the hose.

Discard

Discard the water in the bucket.

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

A basic aquarium heater looks like a big test tube which has a wiring in it and electrical cord coming out of it.

The wiring is a heating coil in a glass tube that gets to go in your aquarium. This has to be turned on and off. You’ll be able to set the desired temperature using the thermostat.

Types of saltwater aquarium heaters:

Hanging Heater

They are usually called clamp-on, clip-on, or semi-submersible heaters. These are the old school style of heaters. They’ve been around since early 70’s.

The name comes from a hanging heater because you simply hang it on the upper part of your aquarium. The extent to which part of the body goes under water will depend on the type of heater installed.

These are an inexpensive from of water heater but I don’t recommend this to be the best choice.

Here are some of disadvantages:

• The location on where you put it is not very efficient for heat exchange.
• The location is vulnerable to disturbance of either you or the inhabitant.
• There’s a high chance that it will be damage from where it is located.
• They tend to have less efficient thermostats for controlling their operation.

Since you’ve probably already invested a lot of money in setting up your aquarium, try not to jeopardize the success by saving a few dollars on a cheap heater!

Submersible Heater

This is the preferred choice for saltwater aquariums. It is also called as immersion heater. You can fully submerge it which ever location you want.

• You can put it all the way to the bottom where it will be out of the way of you when you do your routine cleaning.
• Out of the way of your inhabitants.
• Out of the view.
• In a more efficient location for heat dispersion.
• Even in the sump of your trickle filter keeping it completely out of the way!

Submersible saltwater aquarium heaters also have advanced thermostat controls, which make it easier to set the desired temperature.

To avoid hot spots...

Place the heater close to an area where there is a circulation of water to avoid any hotspots in the water which typically is near the filter system.

Recommended Heater Products from Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Maintaining the right temperature in your saltwater aquarium is very important and any fluctuations on the temperature will cause great stress to your fish within your saltwater aquarium.

Saltwater fish normally experience a few changes in temperature in their natural habitat you its ideal if you can copy the natural enviornment in your saltwater aquarium.

As most fish and invertebrates are cold-blooded animals which means their body temperatures are the same as the water in which they live. Their bodies function best at a specific water temperature.

All fishes have temperature preference depending where they came from so try asking your local pet dealer for information. Or better yet, try to read one of the many fish encyclopedias available for the specific temperature.

Also, try not to mix or house fishes that have a very different temperature preference. It will be easier to house the ones that require temperature that are in close range.

Recommended Heater Products from Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Therefore any sudden changes in your saltwater aquarium temperature can cause stress to your fish and other inhabitants.

So any changes in our Saltwater aquarium temperature is very likely to cause...

• damage to the fish’s immune system
• fish stress
• diseases
• algae outbreaks

This is why stable aquarium temperatures are very important to the life of your fish.

The oceans i not made up of water of the same temperature, temperate fishes inhibit areas where the waters are slightly colder. These fishes are also well adapted to low light levels and shorter days.

In contrast, warmer waters are present in large areas around the world and the most common fishes in the saltwater aquarium are tropical coral reef species.

Tropical refers to the waters in their natural habitat where it is warm throughout the year.

So this means you MUST heat your aquarium water. This is the job of aquarium heaters. It will maintain your aquarium water at a constant temperature.

It is possible for your saltwater aquarium to become too warm, especially during hot summer days.

If you’re looking for a short term solution, try to fill a plastic bag with ice cubes, seal it and float it in the aquarium or in the filter sump which will help.

But a better solution is that you might need to add a chiller during summer when it gets too hot. And it might be necessary for you to turn off your aquarium heater.

But whatever it is that you need to do, another important thing to remember is "slowly change the temperature of your tank".

You can reduce the high probability of causing stress to your fish if you follow that simple reminder!

Recommended Heater Products from Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

If your choosing to house fish and only live rocks then maybe a standard fluorescent aquarium light will be adequate, but if your looking at more things like coral and photosynthetic animals then i would suggest a greater intensity of lighting like a metal halide.

So which one is the right lighting system for your saltwater aquarium?

Let's look at your options below. This will give you an idea of each light’s benefit, its quality, expense, amount of electricity it consumes and the life of the bulb itself.

Natural Light

Natural sunlight is inexpensive, provides the entire spectrum of wavelengths, called full-spectrum light. It is an ideal source of light for your aquarium, but is very difficult to control the right amount of it. It is also unpredictable so I don’t think this would be an acceptable source of aquarium light.

Tungsten

These type of saltwater aquarium lighting were used as a source of light for freshwater aquariums long time ago. It was the incandescent light on those aquariums. Your typical light bulb at home gives out tungsten light.

• Quality:

It burns hot and do not provide full spectrum lighting. They also promote algae bloom in aquariums.

• Durability:

It doesn’t last long and would require frequent changing.

• Expense:

Low cost but consume a lot of electricity.

• Recommendation:

Do not use this for your saltwater aquarium.

Fluorescent

Most of the fluorescent lamps that are out in the market are used typically for freshwater aquariums but is alsio popular in saltwater aquariums. Typically they come built in with a full hood but can come as trip lights too.

• Quality:

Fluorescent light gives cool and bright light and spreads evenly from the light into the aquarium. They come in variety of choices and power output nowadays. Full spectrum lighting is ideal for reef aquarium.

• Durability:

It is known to last from several months to two years, dpending on the bulb.

• Expense:

It is less expensive than other aquarium lighting. They are very efficient and consume low amounts of electricity.

Power compact Fluorescent

They are sold as strip lights or can be purchased as retrofit kit for a standard hood and are look like a u-shape instaed of the usual straight fluorescent tubes, but there output id much higher tahn the standard tubes.

• Quality:

Does the same as the standard fluorescent lights. The only difference is that this type produces higher intensity lighting. Full spectrum and specialty lighting are available and work very well for deeper reef aquariums.

• Durability:

It also last from several months to two years depending on the bulb.
• Expense:

It is more expensive than the standard fluorescent lights but is more efficient and consumes less electricity.

• Recommendation:

This is excellent for reef aquariums.

Mercury Vapor

This saltwater aquarium lighting uses mercury vapor to produce light from spotlights such as above the aquarium.

• Quality:

Gives intense, deep-penetrating, full-spectrum light which is ideal for invertebrate aquariums. There are bulbs that have more blue on the spectrum and are available for special reef lighting.
They run hot so the light needs to be suspended and ventilated. Be extra careful when you use this as they may produce ultraviolet light that can damage your eyesight.

• Durability:

You would need to replace this every eight to twelve months to maintain its maximum efficiency.

• Expense:

This lighting is expensive to purchase and operate.

• Recommendation:
  • high intensity light for photosynthetic invertebrates and
  • soft fluorescent lighting for pleasant viewing

It is ideal for reef and invertebrate aquariums.

Combination

They are expensive and offer the best of both:

Combinations of saltwater aquarium lighting are now offered for your saltwater aquarium. The common types are the ones that sit above the aquarium. One is metal halide fluorescent fixture that includes multiple light sources.

Halides are typically used for photosynthetic corals and invertebrates. They produce high heat and may require a chiller. Shallow water corals will benefit from this intense lighting.

Recommended Lighting from Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Canister filters are basically like a external power filter that instead of hanging from the aquarium side will now sit on the bottom and are versatile in they can be used for mechanical, chemical, and/or biological filtration in saltwater aquarium systems.

It draws water from the aquarium with an intake tube and returns it with an output tube which can be directed any where you like. Or even directed to another filtration system like the under gravel filter system.

The filter is built up with compartments with different kinds of filter media. Activated carbon, filter sponges, filter floss, and ceramic bodies are some of the filter media used.

Canister filters are made to filter large volume of water and are a great choice as they enhance preformance and convenience.

Generally these filters cost moe than others but with the benefits the price can be worth it with the added effciency etc.

If you plan to house not only fish but invertebrates and all kinds of corals, I would recommend getting a canister filter.

It can act as a stand alone filter, or be used in combination with other types of filtration.

Here are some examples for each category.

1. Mechanical Filtration

If you have an undergravel filter you can add a hang-on-tank canister filter to remove free floating debris from the water.

If you continue running a canister filter on this type of set up, it will contribute in the improvement of your water quality.

If you have a semi-reef system with fish and some live rock in it, you can install a canister filter inline to act as a "prefilter" to remove unwanted waste from your saltwater aquarium water before it goes through the actual biological filter.

This can also be done on full reef tanks with live rock and corals in them, but the debate about continually running mechanical filtration in this type of system is that such a set up filters out beneficial plankton life in the water that many marine organisms feed on.

2. For Chemical Filtration

If you need help in clearing up the water quality, they can place activated carbon in one of the media layers to help eliminate odors, medications or other contaminates in the water.

You can also use other types of absorbing products that are designed to remove nitrates, phosphates, silicates and other unwanted chemical elements or compounds.

3. For Biological Filtration

Many are designed for this use. Actually a lot of aquarists use them in this way. But I think this is not a good choice if you are to use it as your "main" source for biological filtration.

It’s ok for smaller systems, but most do not have a chamber big enough to hold a sufficient amount of bio-media in them for larger ones.

See Saltwater Aquarium Filters.

Powerfilters are the easiest and least complicated of all the saltwater aquarium filter systems available on the market right now.

The mechanism is simple the power filter pulls the water into the filter media and is pumped back to the aquarium.

External Power Filters

The filter hangs on the outside of the aquarium and is powered by a motor. The filter is made of filter floss or sponges and activated carbon filter media. The water enters the filter by a U-shaped intake tube and flows to the media and reenters the saltwater aquarium by another tube or a spillway.

The external Power Filter provides both mechanical and chemical filtration. The biological filtration is only established when the filter matures and bacteria colonize it.

The filter provides all three kinds of filtration. It also circulates water, which provides aeration and water circulation in the aquarium.

These kinds of filters are easy to maintain. You can simply replace it. Most comes in simple cartridges.

They are ideal for aquariums that also have an undergravel filter system or a live rock.

Biowheels Power filters

Some of the external powerfilters come with a smart option called biowheel. Biowheel comes in contact with air and water in the filter. Water moves through the filter, the wheel spins and expose the bacteria that live on the wheel to air and the water.

This system provides enhanced biological filtration when bacteria get sexposed to air making it efficient for the conversion of ammonia.

Biowheel also help keep the bacteria even if you have to replace the internal filter media. It is available as an external powerfilter or as a separate unit that hang on the back of your aquarium. It is powered by a powerhead or a canister filter.

Internal Power Filters

These are basically similar to external powerfilters but are placed on the inside the aquarium.

The benefit of this kind of filter is that they provide an excellent water movement since they are usually placed near the bottom of the aquarium which is where dead spots that may occur in your salt water aquarium.

But a disadvantage is that it takes up valuable space inside and blocks the view. But newer versions are now available as decoration inside your aquarium which you can use for aquascaping.

See Filters for Saltwater Aquariums.

Wet/dry filters maximize the exposure of the aquarium water to bacteria and air at the same time.

This way the bacterial conversion of ammonia is more efficient.

An overflow box on the back of the aquarium brings the water from the aquarium to a trickle filter box.

It is usually divided into two sections.

One contains layers of filter media for mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. This area is dry except for the lower part.

The other section has a pump and other optional equipments.

The water from the aquarium is trickled evenly over the first section though the filter media where it collects at the bottom. It then moves to the other section and return to the aquarium.

It is called wet/dry because of their division. The dry part involves the layers of filter media above the wet part. The water is exposed to air and bacteria for a good conversion of ammonia to nitrate.

The wet part in the bottom section involves the further conversion of nitrogen compounds (nitrate) to less harmful nitrogen gas. The bacteria that do this don’t need oxygen. The wet part makes this happen.

They offer greater advantages over other filter systems in terms of effectiveness.

See Aquarium Filters.

But since there are a lot of improvements in the efficiency of filters, less and less aquarist use it because more and more new technology is available.

The Original under gravel filters

The basic undergravel filters have a perforated plastic plate that goes on the bottom of the aquarium under the gravel.

Each rear corner of the plate is a lift tube that extends up into the aquarium. Air is pump to the bottom of each lift tube and bubbles that come right back up the tube creating a water vacuum.

The water in your aquarium gets pulled down through the gravel and the filter plate and out the lift tube. Water circulation is then formed from the aquarium down to the gravel.

Your gravel acts as a media when you use this kind of filters. Debris and other particles gets trapped into the gravel and provides mechanical filtration. As bacteria that breaks down harmful ammonia from in your gravel, it provides an excellent biological filtration system and we have use certain kinds of gravel for this type of filtration system.

The only problem when you use this kind of filters is that it will usually get clogged from the debris that were trapped in the gravel. Therefore we need to routinely siphone the tank.

Cleaning can be difucult if your aquarium has lots of corals and live rocks sitting on the gravel. This is the reason why this kind of filter is not really suited for a reef aquarium. Other problems can be the noise generated and can be not strong enough for the water circulation in your salt water aquarium specially when the gravel clogs.

Reverse flow

Reverse flow of water in the gravel means that water is pumped though the gravel and will prevent clogging and the efficiency of the media will also be maintained.

How do you reverse the flow?

The common way is by adding another filter. Pump the water from the output of a canister filter down the lift tube of the undergravel filter. This can easily reverse the flow of water. Canister filter will also take care of the mechanical filtration for you.

The reverse flow gravel filter provides an excellent biological filtration without the dilemma connected with the original system.

Powerheads

This is one of the major improvements to the undergravel filters in the market as it replaces the less efficient air-driven system. The powerhead is a small pump that is sitting on top of the lift tube and it pulls the water through the gravel.

It improves filter efficiency and water circulation in your saltwater aquarium.

What about aeration? It comes now with a ventura aerator , which introduces air into the outflow.

Reverse flow powerheads are readily available and you can have a reverse flow undergravel filter without adding a canister filter.

The downside - they don’t really provide filtration. They just move the water efficiently.

Saltwater aquariums with fish only are the ones that will benefit this type of filter the most. It is not that expensive and provides good biological filtration.

If you are going to use undergravel filters, I would say that the reverse flow is the most efficient. You can use it with powerheads if you’d like or with a canister filter for added filtration.

See Saltwater Aquarium Filters.

My aim in this article is to make it clear the different types of saltwater aquarium filtration and there processes. Saltwater filters work much lke a home filter for drining water and other home appliances, these filters help create a healthy environment.

Selecting the right saltwater aquarium filtration system for your aquarium is a very important task as once set up it can be very diffeucult and time consuming to remove and set up your salt water aquarium again.

In the market there is a wide range of options to keep your saltwater aquarium clean and healthy and at times you may need to use more than one type of filter to achieve the best possible water condition for your saltwater fish and other inhabitants.

So, which one or which ones best suits your use? Here are the most common types of filter you may come across and may want to use:

Undergravel Filters

They go on the bottom of your aquarium, underneath your gravel or sand. They are inexpensive and rely on either an air pump or powerhead to function. They are best suited for aquariums with a light fish load.

Wet/Dry or Trickle Filters

Water is pumped from the aquarium, then by means of a drip/trickle plate or rotating spray arm the water is dispensed or "trickled" down over and through a biological material source contained in the wet/dry filter chamber.

There are many designs, but they all work on the same concept. The filter media is exposed to both aquarium water (wet) and air (dry). Many aquarists believe that they are great for saltwater fish-only aquariums.

Power Filters

They are the most common way to keep your aquarium condition healthy. They are designed to work on the majority of aquarium set-ups and provide quality results and very easy to use. They hang off the back of your aquarium. You can conveniently replace the filter cartridge which makes maintenance very simple.

Canister Filters

They are very versatile as they are able to serve many purposes within your tank. They can act as stand alone filter or be used in combination with other types of filtration as well.

The canister are generally larger than most power filters. They are able to hold different filter media types that are layered on top of each other. They serve as a biological, chemical, and mechanical filter in an aquarium with plenty of fish.

So there are the basic types of saltwater aquarium filters and are key to any successful saltwater aquarium.

See Aquarium Filters

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide