The pH (Power of Hydrogen) is the measuring unit of acidity or alkalinity on the water namely our saltwater aquarium. The degree of acidity or alkalinity is determined by the quantity of acids and bases in the water. The scale for pH ranges from 0 to 14.

If theres a equal balance of both acidity and alkalinity in the water it is considered to be neutral or scale of 7. Where as a high acidic water will have a reading of 1 comparied to a alkaline which would read 14. As the pH scale is logarithmic a slight chnace in the H number is infact a large change in reality.

Saltwater and our saltwater aquarium has a high pH value typically 8.2, thereofre our aim for our aquarium is to stay within the range of 8.1 to 8.3. A low pH in the saltwater aquarium is dangerous as it results in excess toxic ammonia, therefore its very important to maintain the correct pH level.

When pH fluctuates

The pH in your saltwater aquarium is affected by the carbon dioxide and fish waste. To much will cause the waters pH to drop. A quick fact is that during nitrogen cycle, acid is produced and alters the pH in your saltwater aquarium. It is always good to have a pH test kit in handy. This is important when monitoring the quality of your aquarium water. It is also pretty simple and easy to use. Try monitoring the pH and acid level every week to detect any changes.

When you experience a large drop in your pH level that will indicate theres an increase in carbon dioxide or the nitrogenous fish wastes. Two solutions could be to aerate the saltwater aqaurium or partial saltwater change. This will help in keeping the normal pH level.

There are two ways on maintaining pH level in its normal saltwater range.

First the saltwater itself has buffering capacity. It is the ability of a solution to resist changes in pH.

It is capable of maintaining the correct pH in spite of all the activities going on in your saltwater aquarium.

Second is it will take care of itself as long as the rules on feeding, stocking saltwater fish and other invertebrates and water changes are followed.

There are a lot of commercial salt mixes that contains buffers. It keeps the pH from falling. But overtime, the buffering capacity of your water will decrease and carbon dioxide or waste build-up will cause the pH to drop.

So what are the solutions?

Routine water changes will maintain your pH and acid at desirable levels. But if it still falls out of the acceptable range, solving it by following the guideline.

• Use a commercially manufacture aquarium buffer. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
• Add a solution of calcium hydroxide. It is commonly called kalkwasser or limewater. It helps boost calcium level so ph also increases.

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Feeding saltwater fish should be done 2 times a day and feed only what they can consume in 2 to5 minutes and not more, and where possible stick to a schedule, this will ensure your fish are happy and healthy.

If theres still uneaten food on the surface remove it with a siphon or a net.

This will stop the saltwater parameters from being affected which then will affect the health of your fish.

Try to understand your fish dietary needs. Proper saltwater fish nutrition is important for their health and well being. Like humans the fishes basic nutrients: protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals.

Choose the food that is right for your saltwater fish. Try using a combination of flake, frozen and fresh foods if you can.

Remmebr to feed your fish while your are on vacation, so get a friend to help or invest in an automatic feeder which will take the guess ou of feeding.

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Cleaning algae in your saltwater aquarium should be part of your routine maintenance and care.

Algae are not really a bad thing, but most aquarims are far better without too much of it. To better understand, here is why algae exists and how you can manage it to avoid problems.

Nitrate, phosphate, carbon dioxide and dissolved organic matter are substances that accumulate in your saltwater aquarium providing the fuel for the algae to grow.

Nitrate is the first source of life for algae and is actively available in the nitrogen cycle in your tank when you are setting it up.

Phosphate will be present in your saltwater when you conduct a partial water change. Excess food that your fish did not eat will also be present. You cannot avoid phosphate but you can control it.

Carbon dioxide will always be present whether you like it or not.

Then the last component comes from the dissolved organic matter. Installing a protein skimmer will help in this algae control.

Excessive amount of these nutrients leads to algae outbreaks in your saltwater aquarium. It also needs light to thrive so avoid direct sunlight.

There is really no single simple maintenance technique on how you can avoid algae growth. But knowing which ones and how much are good will help.

More information about algae and types of algae can be found here.

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Circulation is the transporting of the oxygenated water around the saltwater aquarium, but circulation does more than just transport oxygen:

• Sweeps away wastes
• Delivers food
• Helps the animals' own internal circulation
• distribute the temperature

They cant work alone and must work as a system without one the saltwater aquarium will not function well.

Aquarium heaters will only efficient of there is a good circulation of water in the tank, its pointless to heat one corner of the saltwater aquarium and not the whole tank.

Generally most types of saltwater aquarium filteration sytems in some form will aerate the water.

For example, the aquarium undergravel filter with powerheads provides circulation and aeration. Also the input piping of from a canister filter or trickle filters provides some sort of circulation and aeration.

Live rock however doesn’t provide circulation or aeration but provides excellent filtration.

In fact, circulation and aeration is needed to keep live rock healthy and to maximize biological filtration.

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

The changing your saltwater aquariums water is one of the most important aspects of your care and maintainence.

When waste products accumulates in your saltwater aquarium, the quality of water changes too. Problems will occur and the only way to solve it is to physically changing the water.

This will remove the wastes from within the water and bring back the valuable trace elements your saltwater need for your fish to survive.

How much and how often is correct?

There is no set in stone rules to how often and how much, so heres some recommendations and information that can help you run your own system and routine that works best for you and your saltwater aquarium.

Performing 20-30% of water volume per month is the common maintenance recommendation. But normally 15-20% water change is enough. It is better to perform 10-15% of water volume twice a month rather than 20-30% at one time.

Changing the water more frequently with smaller amounts is more effective. Changing the water can also prevent potential poisoning or over exposure to medication, additives and other chemicals you put on your saltwater aquarium. It also helps in stability of pH balance.

Siphoning Water

The best maintanence method while chnaging your water is too vacuuming the gravel at the same time. Use a gravel cleaner as you siphon aquarium water using the correct method, this will help to remove wastes and uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

Proper siphon equipment is designed to remove water and debris without stressing your fish and no aggressive water being drawn from the aquarium. The gravel in your saltwater aquarium is suctioned up and then tumbled back down. Debris and waste materials are loosened during this process and are siphoned away keeping your tank looking physically clean. Siphon process maintenance may not be possible in tanks with sand substrate. The surface gravel should be stirred during every partial water change for these reasons:

• If you have an undergravel filter, stirring breaks up impacted areas in the filter bed where water flow cannot really pass through.
• Stirring puts detritus into suspension where it can be siphoned out with the old water.

Adding Water into your Saltwater Aquarium

The water replacement for your saltwater aquarium must be dechlorinated and mixed before you refill the saltwater in your aquarium. Or you can get a premixed and conditioned saltwater from your local aquarium store. Check the temperature of the water before pouring into the aquarium. Aim to match the actual temperature of the aquarium or slightly higher.

Pour the water sowly into the auarium as not to stress or scare the fish, once you have completed the pur, add a quality water dechlorinator/conditioner to the aquarium.

Using water conditioner called water conditioning after each and every water change can help remove chlorine and chloramines that are present in most municipal water. Water out of your tap is usually loaded with chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals, phosphates and other ions. Many of these compounds will harm you fish, so they need to be removed from the water.

Another time we need water is when evaporation has occurred. Depending on the amount of aeration and circulation that you have. When water evaporates salt is left behind and this will increase the salinity and specific gravity of the water. The solution is simple add freshwater, it must be conditioned water and not premixed saltwater. But if the evaporaton is little then botttled water will be fine, use distilled water as it has no mineralsadditives and toxic compounds

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Hydrometers come in two types:

• Floaters
• Swing Needle

Hydrometers are reletively inexpensive, and very useful and helpful for any Saltwater aquarium set up. Specific gravity for your saltwater aquarium should be maintained in the range of 1.021 to 1.024.

Floater

This was the original design hydrometer for saltwater aquarium and looks like a large floating thermometer.

The deisgn has a scale inside a long-necked tube. The level at which the tube floats depends on how much salt is in the water.

The scale is read where the water’s surface meets the equipment, but as the water movement is a lot making it diffucult to read.

Swing-Needle

The swing needle is easier to read than the floater, the deisgn is a small plastic box with a needle in it that pivots when the box is filled with aquarium water.

The needle will point to a scale, which will then tell you the specific gravity.

Swing-needles usually need to be calibrated to get accurate reading. So make sure that you follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions on how to use this equipment.

The needle can also sometimes stick. Tapping it will do the work.

This kind is also known as pointer or floating-needle.

Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Salinity is the actual concentration of dissolved ion in the water and is not affected by temperature. It is measured in parts per thousand (ppt).

But to directly measure it, we need an to buy equipment which is pretty expensive.

There is an easier and more practical way to measure the salt level in your aquarium however. It is by measuring or estimating specific gravity with a hydrometer.

Specific gravity is defined as the ratio of densities of saltwater to pure water at various temperatures. Since it is directly related to water temperature, the hydrometer may not be calibrated to the temperature in your aquarium.

Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60°F. So the reading result still needs to be converted to get the actual or true specific gravity of the water. There should be a conversion table included with the instructions that come with your hydrometer.

At temperatures 75°F - 79°F (standard aquarium temperature), the conversion results in the addition of 0.002 to the reading.

For example, if the reading is at 1.023 and the aquarium temperature is at 77°F, the actual specific gravity of the aquarium water is 1.025.

The normal range should be at 1.012 to 1.024. It should also be maintained at a specific level within this range.

Remember that even a minor fluctuation can cause problems for your aquarium inhabitants.

Here are kinds of hydrometers and more information about each of them.

When salt level fluctuates....

Evaporation is the main cause of salt level change. When the water evaporates in a saltwater aquarium, the salts don't. When this happens, salinity and specific gravity will increases.

Monitoring the water in your aquarium is a must. By doing this you can avoid major fluctuation and resolve the problem right away.

Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Negative molecules that are typically found in saltwater that act as buffers are called carbonates and bicarbonates. There is a specific kind we call carbonate hardness that you need to measure in your saltwater aquarium.

Checking carbonate hardness (alkalinity)

Measuring carbonate hardness is referred to as measuring the alkalinity of the water, but this different to the pH measurement that is alkaline. Carbonate hardness affect pH, but you’re not measuring pH. Carbonate hardness can be measured with a test kit. It may be called as alkalinity test kit. It is usually reported in milli-equivalents per liter (meq/L). The level in your aquarium should be greater than 3.0 meq/L.

How to adjust carbonate hardness (alkalinity)

The if the readings are below the recommended level, adjustments need to be made. Your pH will be decreasing as well if alkalinity is not in the normal range.

There is three methods for adjusting your pH and are also used to increase the carbonate hardness (alkalinity).

• Water change

Remove the old water and replace with fresh buffed water saltwater the pH level will adjust too. This is the first step. Click here for details on changing your saltwater water.

Test the water again after about a day. If the carbonate hardness is still low, follow the next two steps.

• Use a commercially manufactured aquarium buffer.

It’s available at most aquarium dealers. It buffers the aquarium water if you use it properly. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Kalkwasser

Add a solution of calcium hydroxide – kalkwasser. This will increase the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of your water.

Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium.

Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

• pH and Acid
• Salinity
• Carbonate Hardness
  
• Nitrite

Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter will convert toxic ammonia into nitrite but this is still toxic.

Regular testing is essential and once you have detected its presence, you should take all the necessary steps to remove it before it become worse.

As any high levels of nitrite found in your saltwater aquarium can quickly lead to fish loss. Even small amount of nitrite traced in your saltwater causes stress to your fish.


See the suggested level for this parameter for your saltwater aquarium on the chart below.

• Nitrate

Nitrate is what maintains an aquarium's biological filtration system function and stay in balance. Nitrite is converted into nitrate during this cycling process.

Nitrates are not as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but they are harmful and will stress your fish at high enough levels.

Constant water changes are ideal to remove nitrates in your water. See the suggested level of this parameter for your saltwater aquarium on the chart below.

Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide

Water chemistry continually changes with the adding of more fishes. So for several week after adding our fish we must test the water.

Use quality testing equipments or kits to monitor your Aquarium water parameters. Keep and write down your results for reference in future.

If you notice any dramatic change since you last tested the water, action may be required.

See the following:

• If the pH is too low, conduct a water change. See Acid and pH page for more information on how to raise the pH again.
• If the ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is too high, conduct water change. see how the saltwater aquarium nitrogen cycle works to understand more..
• If carbonate hardness is too low, again, conduct water change and refer to Hardness and Alkalinity page.
• If your salinity or specific gravity in your aquarium is too high or too low, adjust it accordingly.

Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium

Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide