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Changing your Saltwater Aquarium Water
The changing your saltwater aquariums water is one of the most important aspects of your care and maintainence.
When waste products accumulates in your saltwater aquarium, the quality of water changes too. Problems will occur and the only way to solve it is to physically changing the water.
This will remove the wastes from within the water and bring back the valuable trace elements your saltwater need for your fish to survive.
How much and how often is correct?
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There is no set in stone rules to how often and how much, so heres some recommendations and information that can help you run your own system and routine that works best for you and your saltwater aquarium.
Performing 20-30% of water volume per month is the common maintenance recommendation. But normally 15-20% water change is enough. It is better to perform 10-15% of water volume twice a month rather than 20-30% at one time.
Changing the water more frequently with smaller amounts is more effective. Changing the water can also prevent potential poisoning or over exposure to medication, additives and other chemicals you put on your saltwater aquarium. It also helps in stability of pH balance.
Siphoning Water
The best maintanence method while chnaging your water is too vacuuming the gravel at the same time. Use a gravel cleaner as you siphon aquarium water using the correct method, this will help to remove wastes and uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.
Proper siphon equipment is designed to remove water and debris without stressing your fish and no aggressive water being drawn from the aquarium. The gravel in your saltwater aquarium is suctioned up and then tumbled back down. Debris and waste materials are loosened during this process and are siphoned away keeping your tank looking physically clean. Siphon process maintenance may not be possible in tanks with sand substrate. The surface gravel should be stirred during every partial water change for these reasons:
- If you have an undergravel filter, stirring breaks up impacted areas in the filter bed where water flow cannot really pass through.
- Stirring puts detritus into suspension where it can be siphoned out with the old water.
Adding Water into your Saltwater Aquarium
The water replacement for your saltwater aquarium must be dechlorinated and mixed before you refill the saltwater in your aquarium. Or you can get a premixed and conditioned saltwater from your local aquarium store. Check the temperature of the water before pouring into the aquarium. Aim to match the actual temperature of the aquarium or slightly higher.
Pour the water sowly into the auarium as not to stress or scare the fish, once you have completed the pur, add a quality water dechlorinator/conditioner to the aquarium.
Using water conditioner called water conditioning after each and every water change can help remove chlorine and chloramines that are present in most municipal water. Water out of your tap is usually loaded with chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals, phosphates and other ions. Many of these compounds will harm you fish, so they need to be removed from the water.
Another time we need water is when evaporation has occurred. Depending on the amount of aeration and circulation that you have. When water evaporates salt is left behind and this will increase the salinity and specific gravity of the water. The solution is simple add freshwater, it must be conditioned water and not premixed saltwater. But if the evaporaton is little then botttled water will be fine, use distilled water as it has no mineralsadditives and toxic compounds
Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care
Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide
Hydrometers
Hydrometers
Hydrometers come in two types:
- Floaters
- Swing Needle
Hydrometers are reletively inexpensive, and very useful and helpful for any Saltwater aquarium set up. Specific gravity for your saltwater aquarium should be maintained in the range of 1.021 to 1.024.
Floater
This was the original design hydrometer for saltwater aquarium and looks like a large floating thermometer.
The deisgn has a scale inside a long-necked tube. The level at which the tube floats depends on how much salt is in the water.
The scale is read where the water’s surface meets the equipment, but as the water movement is a lot making it diffucult to read.
Swing-Needle
The swing needle is easier to read than the floater, the deisgn is a small plastic box with a needle in it that pivots when the box is filled with aquarium water.
The needle will point to a scale, which will then tell you the specific gravity.
Swing-needles usually need to be calibrated to get accurate reading. So make sure that you follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions on how to use this equipment.
The needle can also sometimes stick. Tapping it will do the work.
This kind is also known as pointer or floating-needle.
Complete guide to saltwater aquarium maintenance and care
Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide
Salinity and Specific Gravity
Remember our saltwater aquarium needs to copy the natural seawater as close as possible, this is where we look at salinity and specific gravity. So we need to measure the amount of salt in our aquarium is correct.
Salinity is the actual concentration of dissolved ion in the water and is not affected by temperature. It is measured in parts per thousand (ppt).
But to directly measure it, we need an to buy equipment which is pretty expensive.
There is an easier and more practical way to measure the salt level in your aquarium however. It is by measuring or estimating specific gravity with a hydrometer.
Specific gravity is defined as the ratio of densities of saltwater to pure water at various temperatures. Since it is directly related to water temperature, the hydrometer may not be calibrated to the temperature in your aquarium.
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Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60°F. So the reading result still needs to be converted to get the actual or true specific gravity of the water. There should be a conversion table included with the instructions that come with your hydrometer.
At temperatures 75°F - 79°F (standard aquarium temperature), the conversion results in the addition of 0.002 to the reading.
For example, if the reading is at 1.023 and the aquarium temperature is at 77°F, the actual specific gravity of the aquarium water is 1.025.
The normal range should be at 1.012 to 1.024. It should also be maintained at a specific level within this range.
Remember that even a minor fluctuation can cause problems for your aquarium inhabitants.
Here are kinds of hydrometers and more information about each of them.
When salt level fluctuates….
Evaporation is the main cause of salt level change. When the water evaporates in a saltwater aquarium, the salts don’t. When this happens, salinity and specific gravity will increases.
Monitoring the water in your aquarium is a must. By doing this you can avoid major fluctuation and resolve the problem right away.
Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium
Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide
Carbonate Hardness in your Saltwater Aquarium
Hardness is defined as the amount of dissolved minerals such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and zinc. In most water it consist mainly of calcium and magnesium salts, with trace elements of other metals. If your aquarium water has a high concentration of minerals, it is said to be hard. If it has low levels, it is soft water.
Negative molecules that are typically found in saltwater that act as buffers are called carbonates and bicarbonates. There is a specific kind we call carbonate hardness that you need to measure in your saltwater aquarium.
Checking carbonate hardness (alkalinity)
Measuring carbonate hardness is referred to as measuring the alkalinity of the water, but this different to the pH measurement that is alkaline. Carbonate hardness affect pH, but you’re not measuring pH. Carbonate hardness can be measured with a test kit. It may be called as alkalinity test kit. It is usually reported in milli-equivalents per liter (meq/L). The level in your aquarium should be greater than 3.0 meq/L.
How to adjust carbonate hardness (alkalinity)
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The if the readings are below the recommended level, adjustments need to be made. Your pH will be decreasing as well if alkalinity is not in the normal range.
There is three methods for adjusting your pH and are also used to increase the carbonate hardness (alkalinity).
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Water change
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Use a commercially manufactured aquarium buffer.
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Kalkwasser
Remove the old water and replace with fresh buffed water saltwater the pH level will adjust too. This is the first step. Click here for details on changing your saltwater water.
Test the water again after about a day. If the carbonate hardness is still low, follow the next two steps.
It’s available at most aquarium dealers. It buffers the aquarium water if you use it properly. Make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Add a solution of calcium hydroxide – kalkwasser. This will increase the buffering capacity (alkalinity) of your water.
Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium.
Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide
Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide
Water Parameters
Learn and understand the saltwater aquarium water parameters as these are the most often tested for your saltwater fish to thrive and survive!
- pH and Acid
- Salinity
- Carbonate Hardness
- Nitrite
Beneficial bacteria in the biological filter will convert toxic ammonia into nitrite but this is still toxic.
Regular testing is essential and once you have detected its presence, you should take all the necessary steps to remove it before it become worse.
- As any high levels of nitrite found in your saltwater aquarium can quickly lead to fish loss. Even small amount of nitrite traced in your saltwater causes stress to your fish.
- Nitrate
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See the suggested level for this parameter for your saltwater aquarium on the chart below.
Nitrate is what maintains an aquarium’s biological filtration system function and stay in balance. Nitrite is converted into nitrate during this cycling process.
Nitrates are not as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but they are harmful and will stress your fish at high enough levels.
Constant water changes are ideal to remove nitrates in your water. See the suggested level of this parameter for your saltwater aquarium on the chart below.
| Aquarium Parameters |
Suggested Level: Reef Aquarium |
Suggested Level: FOWLR Aquarium |
Average Level: Coral Reefs |
| Specific Gravity | 1.023 - 1.025 | 1.020 - 1.025 | 1.025 |
| Temperature | 72 - 78°F | 72 - 78°F | 82°F |
| pH | 8.1 - 8.4 | 8.1 - 8.4 | 8.0 - 8.5 |
| Alkalinity | 8 - 12 dKH | 8 - 12 dKH | 6 - 8 dKH |
| Ammonia (NH3) | Undetectable | Undetectable | Near Zero |
| Nitrite (NO2) | Undetectable | Undetectable | Near Zero |
| Nitrate - Nitrogen (NO3) |
< 1.0 ppm | < 30 ppm | < 0.25 ppm |
| Phosphate (PO4) | < 0.2 ppm | < 1.0 ppm | < 0.13 ppm |
| Calcium | 350 - 450 ppm | 350 - 450 ppm | 380 - 420 ppm |
| Magnesium | 1250 - 1350 ppm | 1150 - 1350 ppm | 1300 ppm |
| Iodine | 0.06 - 0.10 ppm | 0.04 - 0.10 ppm | 0.06 ppm |
| Strontium | 8 - 14 ppm | 4 - 10 ppm | 8 - 10 ppm |
Complete guide to maintenance and care of your saltwater aquarium
Text and Photo Source: Saltwater Aquarium Online Guide
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