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Marine Fish Compatibility Chart
Been wondering which marine fish and mix with which other fish?
Are clownfish compatibile with blennies?
He is a simple matrix table showing the compatibility of marine fish.
Source: thereefshop
Nitrites in the Aquarium
Nitrites are the second stage of the nirogen cycle and follow the ammonia in the cylce, as nitrifying bacteria is available and will build a colony as ammonia is available.
While ammonia is being converted by the species of nitrosomonas, nitrobacter is mainly responsible for converting nitrite into nitrate, which is the final stage three in the cycle. When we set up a new saltwater aquarium, the nitrogenous compounds will rise to high levels and this will enable the bacteria to form a colony of good bacteria and to start the conversion process (nitrogen cycle).
Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are aerobic bacteria and need a constant flow of oxygen in order to survive and to perform their tasks.
Nitrite levels should be at an undetectable level at all times after the aquarium fully cycled which may take several months to complete. Nitrites are not as dangerous as ammonia, but still a highly toxic chemical, Nitrite causes fish stress at levels as low as 0.5 ppm. Levels exceeding 10-20 ppm are lethal over a period of time to fish. Immediate action is required if high nitrite levels persist after 7-10 days.
Nitrite interferes with the oxygen metabolism, it destroys the hemoglobin (oxygen carrying cells) of the fish, and aquatic livestock.
Detecting nitrites often means that the biological filter is not working properly, or the tank is overpopulated and the filter can not handle the load efficiently.
Ammonia in Marine Aquariums
What is Ammonia?
Ammonia is the biggest killer of fish in aquariums. Typically ammonia levels build up when you Nitrogen Cycle a new saltwater aquarium, but ammonia can build up when the fishes are to many for the size of the aquarium and hence overloading.
Dead or decaying materials within the saltwater aquarium cannot be fully cleared away using aquarium filtration systems alone. Ammonia is formed when the excretion of fish in the tank, or any other waste material within the tank starts decaying and decomposing. Decayed food and any other decaying organic materials will increase the concentration of Ammonia within a tank. The exact toxicity of Ammonia will depended on several factors such as water salinity, pH, temperature etc. If the concentration of ammonia can be detected in your aquarium it is said to be too high for your fish.
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Controlling Ammonia concentration within the tank can be achieved by cycling your tank. The nitrogen cycle aimis to create a colony of beneficial bacteria that will feed on the decomposing and decaying matter and will convert them into useful compounds. Bacteria called as Nitrosomonas consume the Ammonia that gets mixed in water and converts this into Nitrites and therefore we go to stage two in the nitrogen cycle. That is why it is necessary to cycle the tank before introducing fish in it. It is in the absence of such bacteria that the Ammonia levels start shooting up in a newly set up tank. These beneficial bacteria only need some organic matter and some time to make a colony.
Why Ammonia Posioning Happens?
Ammonia poisoning happens for two reasons:
- Tank not cycled correctly- introducing a large number of fish into the new tank will cause the Ammonia concentration to increase . Thi is cause the fish will be producing waste and the beneficial bacteria is absent and hence cant be converted and the ammonia will increase until the fish start to die off or if the population of fish is too high for the aquarium size the fish produce too much waste for the beneficial bacteria to handle and it will lead to raise in concreation of ammonia.
- Filter failure, lack of maintenance, over-feeding and use of medications- Sometimes over-enthusiastic beginners will also clean the biological filter media, thus killing the beneficial bacterial colony. When filters are being cleaned, it is important to keep the bacterial colony intact. After cleaning, the good bacteria will need time to recover and cope with the aquarium demands.
Symptoms of Ammonia Poisioning
Fish will show common symptoms if they have ammonia poisoning. The fish starts gasping for air and appear almost always at the surface of the water, or if the fish becomes very lethargic and spends a lot of time simply lying at the bottom of the tank, the fish may be showing signs of Ammonia over-dose. Or maybe the fish shows a red streaking on its fins or elsewhere on the body, this too could be indicative of high levels of Ammonia in the water. Loss of appetite is another common symptom. If the gills of the fish become red or purple, Ammonia levels need to be checked immediately.
How to Reduce Ammonia?
The best way to reduce Ammonia levels in a tank is through partial water changes. A new aquarium should always be cycled. Any new fish should be added slowly maybe only two at a time to ensure no overloading of the aquarium. Proper maintenance of filters is also a must to keep Ammonia levels down.
Rabbit Fish
The Rabbit Fish (family Siganidae) also known as the fox face has adapted to its natural environment with odd characteristics. It has an oval shaped body that is flat and thin. They also have two distinct similarities to the animal, the rabbit, which have given this fish its name. One is the amazing mouth that slightly protrudes, baring its sharp teeth. These teeth are used for munching on dead coral branches and flora that is found on rocks. The fish’s feeding behavior is the second of the similarities to the rabbit. It is a continuing action that gives the appearance of constant munching.
The rabbit fish is a highly diverse family of brightly colored fish that can be found along coastal areas. It is apparent that some species of the rabbit fish, particularly the Siganidae family, have a high tolerance to saline since they can also be found in brackish waters. Other species of this fish have migrated into fresh water.
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Rabbitfish are closely related to Surgeonfish, and are similarly shaped and equally colorful. They are grazers like Surgeonfish and Parrotfish, and help to keep the algae on rock surfaces down to only a millimeter or two in length. The dorsal, ventral, and anal spines of Rabbitfish are mildly venomous but extremely painful, which earned them their ironic Australian name of ‘Happy Moments’. With the exception of the Java Rabbitfish which can grown to over 50 cm a typical adult size is 25 to 30 cm (about 10 to 12 inches).
Rabbit Fish are poisonous and non-poisonous species and are very popular as aquarium specimens. One of the most popular of these is the yellow rabbit fish. This beautifully colored fish has a bright yellow body that is punctuated by a large black dot near the rear. Although it is wary of other fish in the tank it is very seldom known to attack.
Since the rabbit fish is closely related to the surgeonfish it is believed that their mating behaviors are much the same. The rabbit fish likely spawns in groups after which the eggs float on the waters surface until they have hatched.
Water Analysis Testing Technique
Even the most expensive water analysis test kits will not good results if used incorrectly, the most common mistakes is the contaminate of the test tube which collects the water, which will cause inaccurate results.
Following a few simple procedures will help ensure that the tests will be performed as accurately as possible.
Now you shoud know cleaniness is of upmost importance,as you are collecting a small quantity of water, any small contamination will multiply the results no end.
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When using and handling the water analysis test kits,read the instructions as many of the chemicals can be toxic to humans. Another beginners mistake is balancing the test kits liquid,etc on top of the tank,as one accident and all the chemical is in the water.
When testing the aquarium water, use one test kit at a time as you are bound to get mixed up after a while and recording them can be difficult.
To avoid confusion, do only one test at a time, record the results, and then proceed to the next test. Do not hurry. A complete set of test for the typical marine tank should take only about half an hour to carry out.
For more information on Marine Aquarium Water Chemistry or the Marine Aquarium Beginners Guide click here.
Recommended Water Testing Kits by Saltwater Aquarium Guide
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